A Tale of Two Cities

Sunday Stroll

2012-01-23T15:39:00.000-06:00

Typically, a Sunday in January could be drizzly, frigid, grey and unpredictable, but not this week. London has been experiencing a fairly mild winter, and this past Sunday was lovely. I headed out early in the morning, and took time to notice a few things along the way.

The cherry trees have been tricked into blossoming early,

and the tulips at the flower stall were exceptionally vibrant.

My day was off to a great start with an uplifting worship time,

and just steps away from church, the doors of Harrod's pulled me in for the final day of their annual January "There is Only One" sale. In and right back out--what crowds!

Then a subliminal message lured me in for lunch:

my favorite tuna and cheese melt from EAT, and a good book.

Almost next door, I found the newly opened National Geographic store, and I was reminded of my sweet daddy who spent so many years of his life collecting a complete set of National Geographics from its inception as his hobby. The store is a fascinating concept with books, magazines, travel guides, toys and speakers coming in for special events.

It even features a cute café which I'll have to try out soon. Really unique--maybe I'll go back and spotlight it here someday.

Heading back towards home, I found this lilac colored car parked in front of a matching lilac colored mews house. Sweet!

Cocomaya was sure drawing me in with its pastries, but I stayed on the "safe" side of the glass window.

Getting closer to home now, I had to peek in the new shop on Kings Road-the one I was most excited about.

Amorino, one of my favorite Italian gelato shops that I first discovered in Paris, has opened

with its tantalizing assortment of Italian gelato

and Italian chocolates. I will be indulging soon--it's so, so close to our house. Dangerously close!

And after a long Sunday stroll, I ended up back home where I watched the Livestream of our Southeast church services back in Houston. Felt just like I was there!

"Sunday is the golden clasp that binds together the volume of the week."

Henry Wadsworth Longfellow

So how did you spend your Sunday?

Girls' Trip to Stoke on Trent

2012-01-20T14:27:00.000-06:00

Time for the annual American Women's Club outing to what is officially called the Ceramic Capital of the World, or more often, The Potteries--the town of Stoke-on-Trent. Since the early 17th century, the area has been known for its pottery production due to its abundance of clay and coal, and then once china clay was imported in, the manufacture of bone china also began and has carried on to this day.

Today--it's all about the factory shops and bargains galore!

Our first stop was to the Leeds shop, or Royal Creamware, where the beautiful piercings of many of the pieces distinguish the look of its openwork.

Moving down the street, we visited the factory shop of Aynsley, a prominent maker of bone china,

where there were still remnants of Royal Wedding china.

At the time of the Royal Wedding, Aynsley was known as the china maker who had used an unflattering photo of Kate Middleton. Doesn't even begin to show how beautiful she really is.

Since 2012 is the year of the Queen's Jubilee, celebrating her 60th year of being queen, the first of the commemorative pieces are beginning to roll out of production.

One of my favorite stops is always at Burleigh pottery,

where its chintz-look delighted us, and its prices pleased us.

Every piece of Burleigh is made in their authentic Victorian pottery using the original machinery and process.

The blue pottery is a crowd favorite,

but a lot of us were selecting some of the black,

and red, my personal favorite.

My purchases included a couple of bowls and a creamer to add to my collection.

Back on the bus, where we gobbled down a quick sandwich, and continued on our way. Next stop was the Wedgewood Outlet, which also carries Royal Doulton, Minton and Waterford.

I couldn't pass on this Wedgewood china--the plates were marked down from £32.50 ($50) to £5 ($8,)

so ten of them went home with me.

Next, on to Portmeirion, who also now owns Spode and Royal Worcester.

Stacks and stacks of traditional patterns to choose from,

making decisions of how much we could carry home an issue!

Some were drawn to the traditional Spode Blue Italian

or the ever popular Pimpernel place-mats,

but I was searching the Pomona pattern to add to my collection,

this time buying some soup bowls for just £3 or $4.60 each and a pretty tray.

Deals and steals!

Finally, how much we LOVE thee, Emma Bridgewater!

Your ♥'s

your polka dots,

and your bold classic Black Toast pattern thrill us, especially at Factory Shop prices.

And with great JOY, I found another JOY bowl to add to my Christmas cake stand I bought this year.

JOY--found in simple places and definitely in Stoke-on-Trent!

American Girl--There's a New Kid on the Block

2012-01-13T09:44:00.000-06:00

Well, move over American Girl, there's a new gal in town. In London, that is. A new shop featuring dolls and clothing, very much along the line of the successful American Girl company, has opened shop in Westfield Mall.

Yes, you too can make a match made in heaven with your little sweetheart and her own new doll which might even look a bit like her!

Situated in a posh shop in the busy Westfield Mall, the store is so much fun to browse, even if it makes you want to borrow a little girl to accompany you.

Currently, there are 7 dolls to choose from, in a range of different skin tones, eye color, hair color and styles. Meet Amy, Bella, Grace, Lulu, Olivia, Pippa (of course) and Zoe.

May I introduce Amy?

I think this is Olivia--she didn't have her name tag. I think she looks a lot like another little girl at our church. Any of you church gals see a resemblance?

Here's Olivia again in her My London Girl shirt and hoodie.

Another little brunette--maybe Amy again, with her curly hair?

Definitely sweet Grace.

My guess is Lulu

and curly hair Bella.

Plenty of matching party dresses for little girls, size 3-12, and their dolls.

How would one choose?

Handbags, shoes and accessories too.

And to pretend, a Marie Antoinette dress!!

It's calling my pocketbook!

Along with plenty other fairy and ballet ensembles.

Of course, every little girl and her doll needs party goods and frivolities.

And here's my favorite of all--the coat that is. Isn't this adorable? The website here says a sale is going on. Time to do a little shopping--maybe there's one left with a ~~cheaper~~ more special price tag just for one special American Girl I happen to adore!

Royal Hospital Chelsea

2012-01-09T14:37:00.000-06:00

One of the treasures of my neighborhood of Chelsea, is the Royal Hospital Chelsea which is only a couple minutes walk from my house. Built in the late 17th century under the direction of Charles II, its architect is the infamous Sir Christopher Wren, who built 54 London churches and other significant buildings including St.Paul's Cathedral.

Situated over 66 acres and adjacent to the Embankment of the Thames River,

the grounds are a delightful place to stroll

and also the location of the annual Chelsea Flower Show every spring.

Charles II had the Royal Hospital Chelsea built as a home for soldiers who were unfit for duty due to old age or injury. It still exists today 300 years later as a home for retired soldiers who meet certain requirements.

To be a Chelsea Pensioner, upon entry, one must surrender their Army pension, and in exchange they are provided with lodging, uniforms, food, and medical care for their lifetime.

Not a "hospital" in the strictest terms, but a place of "hospitality," the pensioners in scarlet must be free from obligation to support a wife or children, and normally be 65 years of age.

They are organized into three companies, each under the care of a Captain, and still adhere to a semblance of military order. Each Sunday morning, representatives gather for the Governor's Parade immediately preceding worship services in the Chapel.

It's a moving and fascinating parade, which you won't quickly forget.

Each pensioner is given a 9x9 foot berth as their home,

which is just enough room for a few personal things, including some storage, TV,

bed and desk. Meals are taken together as a group several times a day.

They also have their own pub and recreational area.

Because my friends and I enjoy their company so much, we went for a visit one rainy day, when we lucked into meeting up with Paddy Fox, a real "charmer" at the young age of 78, who delighted us with stories of his home country of Ireland and life as a pensioner. Having been at the Royal Hospital since 2001, he has served 35 years in the cavalry.

Paddy must have taken a liking to us too, because he took us into his apartment and tried on his scarlet coat for us to see. With extra responsibilities at the Hospital, he lives in one of the larger apartments that are available for a few lucky guys.

We also toured the beautiful chapel which was consecrated in 1691,

gazed at the magnificent painting of the Resurrection by Sebastiano Ricci,

listened to the incredible organ

and visited with one of the handful of women pensioners who was happy to tell us all about the chapel. It was only in March of 2009 that any women were allowed to become pensioners. It's been very amusing to me to visit with the pensioners while I've lived there, both before and after women were admitted, to hear of their reluctance to accept women at first, and their eventual "warming up" to the idea. How would you like to be one of the 2 or 3 women living with over 300 eligible bachelors??

If you are ever in the area on a Sunday morning, I encourage you to attend services there in the chapel. They have an amazing professional choir whose voices are angelic, you will mix and meet with the locals in the area, as well as the pensioners, and if you're lucky like we were last year, you might see Margaret Thatcher, because this is her home church when she feels up to coming.

A few parting glimpses, this is the Great Hall where the pensioners take their meals

and here's the hallway of one of the wards where they live. One of the directors allowed us a quick peek. You can see that their distinguished uniforms hang on the outside of their doors.

You will also find quite a few modernized modes of transportation--scooters lined up along the hallways.

It's been one of the true serendipities of living in this neighborhood to encounter these charming gentlemen on the streets as they make their way to the stores and to do a bit of shopping. They seem to cherish every moment you spend talking with them, and they never fail to delight you with their stories and their generosity with hugs.

May their roads be filled with gratitude for the service and sacrifices they have made for their country.

I salute them!

Where are the Signs Pointing You?

2012-01-03T19:03:00.000-06:00

So, at the dawn of this new year, what signs are guiding you along your way? Do you have clear directions for the year ahead?

I thought it might be fun to share with you some of the signs I've noticed out and about in London.

Of course, we all appreciate any extra help we can get crossing the road, when traffic flows opposite from what we are used to in the US.

And if you're walking down a corridor, you should definitely walk like they drive: on the left side!

And to survive in London, here's the one sign you will depend on every single day--the Tube Map, helping you get from here to there.

I've noticed the British, in their very polite way, always respectfully make requests,

and even make fun suggestions about how to behave while socializing outside a pub.

Always polite, even when mentioning something distasteful!

Here are a few fun ones I've laughed at along the way: Get Your Butties Here,

and this reminder I've shared with you before about priorities.

Sometimes signs can be found in unusual places,

or offering amenities on a cold winter day.

Street signs can leave you wondering,

like this one in my neighborhood. Just who and what is St. Loo--I can only surmise, because I find nothing about its origin online.

But if there really was a Saint of Loos, I'm sure he would be the one passing out these Loo of the Year Awards.

And along that same vein, watch out for slippery walls if you decide to try and climb in without invitation to this toilet.

Warning signs abound throughout London and surrounding areas--watch out for those pedestrians,

tractors

and the old bags!

And be especially careful about those free range children running loose!

Some signs are a bit more ominous--enter "dead" slow, to drive home the point!

And I've always found this sign not far from our home a bit ironic if you think about it!

Sad to say, we see these signs fairly regularly at tube stops. Disturbing, don't you agree?

Now I certainly don't want to close on such a depressing thought, so consider this deep and philosophical question as you are reflecting on the new year and making your resolutions.

What if the Hokey Cokey really IS what it's all about?

Yes, my American friends, you always thought is was the Hokey Pokey, but here in England, it's really the Hokey Cokey, mind you!

Now put your right foot in and your right foot out!

An Untraditional Big Apple Christmas

2011-12-23T21:57:00.000-06:00

We were in New York City last week for a few days, and since this was not the first time I'd seen

NYC all decked out in its Christmas finery, we took a few detours to see some places one doesn't usually go on a trip to the Big Apple in December.

We loved the food vendors all lit up for the holidays,

and the whiff of chestnuts roasting on their fires.

Instead of a Broadway play, we headed to Ellen's Stardust Diner on Broadway at 51st Street.

A retro 50's diner, the singing waitstaff puts on incredible shows each evening and you'll be thoroughly entertained

by some of these talented young people who are all aspiring to get on Broadway.

We headed to SoHo on one afternoon, stopping first at the infamous John's Pizzeria on Bleecker Street, known for its brick oven thin crust pizza. Originally opened in 1929,

the pizza is listed in the North American edition of 1000 Places to See Before You Die, and the Food Network featured it in their "Best Of" series. Look it up the next time you're in town--you might even spot a celebrity or two dining there.

Just down the street, we spotted Molly's Cupcakes, which my niece identified as the winner of the TV show Season 1 Cupcake Wars.

Of course, Megan, my niece and I had to try them out, and I tell you, it was one of the moistest cupcakes I've ever tasted. The place is cute as a bug inside too, with a welcoming decor, and swing seats at the coffee bar and board games sitting around, encouraging you to take your time and stay awhile. So unlike my experience at the more famous Magnolia Bakery, which is a bit overhyped.

One of their award winning cupcakes is the Peach Cobbler Cupcake. Along with that, there was a huge selection to choose from, and what did I select? It was a "back to basics" day for me, and I chose the simple chocolate cake with white icing, which they iced while I waited--offering "with sprinkles or not." Probably the best cupcake I've had in a long time!

Of course, you might prefer to try the cupcakes from this street vendor, but I bet you can't beat Molly's!

Chicagoans--the original Molly's is in your hometown!

Still exploring SoHo, we found Treasure & Bond, a unique charitable concept store, that had recently opened.

Believe it or not, its parent company is Nordstroms, which has yet to open a store in the Manhattan area. Instead they have opened this unique and interesting store, all whose proceeds benefit children's charities. Many think they are testing the market to see just how New Yorkers shop, before coming in with a full size department store.

With housewares, accessories, gifts

jewelry and clothing to choose from, the store is off and running.

Next on our list was MarieBelle's

which is known for its divine range of chocolates and hot chocolate,

and I fell in love with its interior and product selection. So, so tempting--why did I fill up on pizza and cupcakes before finding you??

Lucky for me on this trip, I had the chance to see the Elizabeth Taylor collection of jewels, clothing, accessories, art and memorabilia that was displayed to the public before being auctioned by Christie's.

Although photos were not really allowed, I grabbed one quick snap of a few of her dresses, before heading off to see the amazing jewel collection she had collected through the years--many of them gifts form Richard Burton, Mike Todd and even Michael Jackson.

Antique and the Arts Online

Definitely, the most beautiful "decorations" I saw this Christmas season, the jewels were amazing. The first day of the auction, the 50 carat "La Peregrina" pearl necklace, a gift from Richard Burton, sold for $11.8 million dollars.

Whew!

I put a few of the "baubles" on my Christmas list this year, so let's see what I find in my stocking!

Then it was off to Bergdorf Goodman's with its elaborate window displays and quirky trees,

where I headed to their Christmas department and found this whimsical Marie Antoinette, as I named her, and wondered if the only one way to get her home would be to buy her an extra seat on the plane next to me!

Then for the most untraditional part of all my Christmas exploring in NY--the Lady Gaga Workshop in Barney's Department Store on the 5th floor.

Deemed a "reinterpretation" of Santa's workshop, the 5th floor of the iconic and elegant Barney's New York store on Madison Avenue has been transformed.

With a range of special edition items to select from for your Christmas shopping, would you choose the Lady Gaga stockings,

"chocolate shoes,"

decorated cookies `a la Gaga,

her own interpretation of a snow globe,

magnetic doll dress up set,

or this one-of-a-kind skull ornament for your tree?

There's something for all her "little monsters," and the upside of this bizarre, but wildly popular Workshop is that 25% of the sales will go to her newly created anti-bullying Born That Way foundation.

Not your typical New York City tour of Christmas decor, but I hope it was a fun peek into the city in December, nevertheless.

And now it's time to wish all of you the merriest Christmas, full of joy, and to express my gratitude for all your gifts and expressions of love all year long.

May your new year be blessed.

A Favorite London Shop

2011-12-19T16:17:00.000-06:00

Continuing with the theme of shopping that I started in my last post, I thought I would share with you one of my favorite little shops in London. The Covent Garden Academy of Flowers is a flower design school located in quiet St. Martin's Courtyard, offering courses in flower design, but they also have a little shop just full of merchandise.

Of course, on any day, you can always find a beautiful selection of

fresh flowers no matter what time of the year,

but if you come on in the shop, you'll find a treasure box of delights.

Little gifts for all occasions,

beautiful Christmas ornaments this time of the year,

tiny evening bags for you and a friend,

royal frames,

golden bottles,

bowls in rainbow colors,

and candles,

candles,

and more candles in many styles and colors, even in tea cups.

Found these cute magnetic "pegs" (or clothespins as we Americans call them) the last time I was there, and just had to buy some for me and my friends.

Cashmere throws,

journals for keeping secrets,

and all sorts of "lovelies" so tempting, that I bet you can't walk out without buying at least one thing.

A couple of weeks ago, I had to chuckle at this new line of merchandise,

with options for either line of thinking

and equal opportunity to decide whose really in charge!

I'm steering clear of this debate.

Check out their little store and the beautiful design studio on the lower floor the next time you find yourself in the Covent Garden area.

A Little London Christmas Shopping

2011-12-17T17:04:00.000-06:00

Many who know me, know how much I love the annual Nutcracker Christmas Market in Houston each year, benefitting the Houston Ballet. The last two years, I've been in London during the weekend of the Nutcracker Market and have sadly missed it, but I must tell you, there is a fantastic substitute right here in London--the Country Living Magazine Christmas Fair.

With over 400 exhibitors from all over the UK, the selection of British gifts, crafts and foods are a serious temptation. Here's a little sampling of what I saw this year.

Decorations and ornaments for every taste, including the whimsical,

the folksy,

and the country feel.

A throwback to younger times--I bought Pixie dust here,

and there are plenty of vintage booths,

and something for every style of decorating.

A wee bit of antique silver

along with magnifying glasses.

Handmade gifts for every taste

with cheeky girls to help you with your selections,

whether it be a book of good thoughts,

stylized pillows,

soap roses,

or my favorite Jan Constantine pillows.

And when you're feeling a bit faint from all the shopping, there's a wide selection of treats in the food hall to tempt you.

And what's a Christmas market in Britain without a tea pot or two?

Or a tea set that's just your style?

Stay tuned--up next--one of my favorite shops in London near the Covent Garden.

See you then....

Christmas is in the Air

2011-12-14T11:31:00.000-06:00

Christmas in London is very festive. Since it gets dark about 3:45 in the afternoon this time of the year, it helps that there are so many lights sparkling around the city. We headed to the lighting of the tree at the Duke of York square on Kings Road a few weeks ago, to kick off the season with our "neighbors."

The traditional mince pies were served,

the reindeers were ready to pull the sleigh,

and our evening started off at a nearby church where St. Nicholas came to read to the children. Singing English Christmas carols in such beautiful surroundings was truly spiring. Some of the British children identify more with the bishop St. Nicholas than our traditional Santa Claus,

whose image, as the priest described to us, is the result of the American Coca-Cola company who began to use this image of jolly St. Nick in 1931 in their advertising campaigns.

Then it was off in a flash as the reindeer pulled St. Nicholas in his sleigh to the Duke of York square

where along with our friends, we enjoyed the lights and the spirit of the season.

Later in the week, I was strolling by Covent Garden, where I caught a peek at their giant Christmas tree

and the 32 foot topiary reindeer.

The Apple Market there was all decked out,

but I was most impressed with the digital painting of the Nativity put together by the director Martha Fiennes in conjunction with SLOimage technology. How I wish I could find a video for you to see this nativity come alive! I sat mesmerized in front of the constantly moving scene which is always evolving. Using 13 characters, the scene is never the same image twice, and I watched in amazement as the Biblical characters came alive in front of my eyes.

It was an oasis of calm amidst all the Covent Garden bustle, and I was grateful for the time to sit and reflect on the greatest gift of the season--the birth of our Lord Jesus Christ.

Harrod's is Ready for Christmas

2011-12-05T12:10:00.000-06:00

It's Christmas time in London, and the lights and festivities abound. I've blogged about many of those in the last three years, and they can be found by "Search the Blog" on the right sidebar should you choose to get a flavor of what Christmas in London is all about.

Harrod's, of course, does Christmas in a big way. They opened their Christmas World in July this year, with over 8000 square feet of ideas to make your Christmas even more special. Summer tourists were excited to see they could find "Christmas in July."

Daily Mail

This year Harrod's paired with Swarovski Crystal to create an enchanting Crystal Forest in their store windows.

Daily Mail

The woodland scenes were dripping with crystal gems and sparkling trees.

Inside the Christmas department, the extravagance continued.

Ornaments and decor

to make your Christmas sparkle with bling.

Of course, the traditional themes were there as well

with plenty of British themed ornaments to choose from,

like this Union Jack Santa

Christmas balls,

and landmarks of London.

Perhaps you'd like to pick up some London themed cookies,

to enjoy with your tea.

Someone on your Christmas list probably needs these salt and pepper shakers,

and Grandma needs a Chrismas Pudding,

little nieces or nephews would be fascinated by their own snow globe,

and I'm sure everyone has a Princess Kate doll on their list this year!

I'm always fascinated by English crackers, and Harrod's always has some of the most beautiful ones. These are Silver Bling and sell for £599 or $940. Wonder what treasures you would find inside?

These red lace ones are nice

or you could spring for the super deluxe for £1299 or $2040. Inside you would find pearls, silver, crystal, silk and leather!

My favorites were these!

And Harrod's always has such nice touches, like this in-house opera singer, Marika Rauscher, who sings to customers as they take the Egyptian elevators up and down. Just a touch above the piano player at Nordstrom's.

I leave you with one of Harrod's Christmas videos which feature clips from their "Security Cam" showing Santa up to a little mischief!

Shopping at the Souk in Morocco

2011-11-29T20:34:00.000-06:00

And now it's time for my final blog on Morocco. I always love to check out the market scene everywhere we travel--you see a real slice of life that way, and that was certainly the case in Marrakech, and the souk we visited there.

My only disappointment was that there was not much shopping time in our schedule, so I had to fly through the market, picking up just a few things, all along wishing I could shop for more.

So if you were shopping, would you pick up some pottery made locally:

perhaps a couscous bowl

or a tagine?

Berber carpets were everywhere, some you had to dig through

and others in stacks daring you to pull one out for closer examination.

Your taste buds are definitely teased with spices,

nuts and fruits,

chickens,

candies

and colorful sweet and savory snacks.

Leather shoes could be found everywhere

you glanced,

and the basket bags were intricately decorated.

Fancy a hat

or a scarf anyone?

The fabrics were a rainbow of color

and so tempting to the eye, even if you had no idea how you would use them.

Maybe you'd fancy a caftan

or two?

And many went home with one of the ubiquitous silver tea pots

and tea glasses of every hue.

What would you place in your shopping bag?

So long Morocco--hope we meet again someday.

Moroccan Design

2011-11-26T13:39:00.000-06:00

I couldn't help but be captivated by the Moroccan style we saw on our recent trip.

Intricately painted tiles,

geometric patterns, and

beautiful pottery all blend together to make the style so visually pleasing. Moroccan style combines the best of Moorish and European influences, and although the style has been around for centuries, it has recently gained popularity in the US, especially with well known retailers such as West Elm and Pier 1 featuring samplings in their shops.

On this trip, I was particularly fascinated by the doors. This one, with two door knockers, is especially functional. The bottom knocker was for someone on foot--the top one for someone on horseback.

Note the colors,

designs,

and the carvings

so typical of the region.

Also fascinating to me were the Moroccan lanterns sold everywhere,

many times with colored panes of glass,

and found in all shapes and sizes

at the local souk (market)

or even in the shops on the street.

Just one more fascinating side of the country of Morocco!

Would you ever consider adding a Moroccan touch to your own interiors?

Next blog, the souk--the final installment in my Moroccan series.

The Soul of Morocco

2011-11-21T13:44:00.000-06:00

When you travel, don't you find that to truly feel the soul of a place, you have to get to know its people?

Looking into the eyes of the people in the street,

and watching them as they carry on

their daily walk of life

can begin to reveal the spirit of a place. Much more than its architecture, food, or sights.

Don't you love the smile of this baker

who bakes for those who bring their bread to him?

And the passion of the shoemakers who make thousands of shoes in a lifetime and take time to speak or nod as you walk by.

The mothers who provide food and nurturing for their young.

The gals who gather in the square for a little socializing

and a henna tattoo.

Yes, the soul of a place is only truly revealed

in its people. The brotherhood of man--

all God's creatures.

“Perhaps travel cannot prevent bigotry, but by demonstrating that all peoples cry, laugh, eat, worry, and die, it can introduce the idea that if we try and understand each other, we may even become friends.” – Maya Angelou

From Here to There

2011-11-19T06:49:00.000-06:00

Getting around the old city of Morocco was no easy feat. It takes some creativity and hard work to sometimes get where one needs to go.

If you need to get from point A to point B, you might grab a "petit taxi" or you could negotiate with one of the drivers of a horse drawn carriage, a "caleche" as they are called, to take you where you want to go.

Both locals and tourists use these horse cabs to get around town, weaving in and out of streets right along with all the motorized vehicles, but at a clip-clop pace. We found it to be a leisurely way to sit back and enjoy the view.

In addition to these, you will find all sorts of creative modes of transportation,

but one of the most popular ways is by motor scooter. This is one of the things about Marrakech I found most unnerving. The scooters would race by on both sides of you, as you were walking down the streets--once I dodged one on my left only to find myself face to face with a horse on the right.

It was very common to see children riding with their parents,

and sometimes whole families would jump on for a ride. No helmets anywhere in sight. As one friend expressed it, she was never so glad to get back to a city with crosswalks than she was after a trip to Marrakech. Very, very nerve wracking making your way along the streets amongst all the bikes zipping by you on both sides.

A motor scooter can make only so many deliveries--I saw one scooter stacked high front and back with crates of eggs--but sometimes you just have to use a beast of burden to get the job done.

Burros or donkeys were plentiful

helping with all sorts of deliveries.

Burros at attention,

and burros on a coffee break!

Bright and early one morning, we saw this chicken truck just down from our Riad making its deliveries.

Fruits were delivered in what would you call this--a motorbike/truck combo?

And I spied this truck making a delivery as we walked down towards the square. Curious, I peeked inside

and discovered it was making an olive oil delivery, not a gasoline delivery as one might think.

And finally, as we made our way to the airport the last day, I spied a caravan of camels taking a break at the traffic light. Rushing to catch our plane, we didn't take time to stop to inquire as to their destination, but I can imagine they were just out for a stroll with all their gear.

I'll never take my SUV, nor divided roads, nor crosswalks, nor bike lanes for granted ever again. I have a new found appreciation for their value!

Coming up, I'll tell a bit about the people we met, the beautiful design of the Moroccan "look," and the treasures of the market in the upcoming week if you'd be so nice as to come back for a visit soon.

From Marrakech to the Atlas Mountains

2011-11-17T13:26:00.000-06:00

On our third day in Morocco, we headed out of Marrakech to the Atlas Mountains. About an hour and a half outside of the city, you reach the beginning of the extensive Atlas mountains which stretch about 1600 miles across Tunisia, Algeria and Morocco. Its highest point is Toubkai at 13, 671 feet and the whole range of mountains is a mecca for trekkers.

We took a more leisurely approach on our trip with our personal guide, Josef, who picked us up in his 4 wheel-drive off-road vehicle.

Winding through snaking roads, there were incredible views of valleys, mountain ranges and villages at every turn of the road.

All along the way, I couldn't believe how many Berber villages with fortified mud dwellings we saw. Each unique in its own way, full of families carving out a life for themselves in the mountains.

The Berber people have been living in these villages for centuries. The men typically work with livestock and migrate around through the year, while the women keep close to the home.

As we made the curve, we spied a herd of goats wandering towards us

so we pulled off the road for a closer view.

They were being led by this Berber shepherd, who like so many others in this region, was leading his animals along the natural order of grazing--looking for water and shelter.

We passed though the Tichka Pass to begin our descent towards arid desert landscape. The topography of this side of the mountains changed drastically--we were now almost 4 hours from Marrakech. On our last 6 miles, the driver put his car into 4 wheel-drive and we went off-roading through the desert to our destination, the ancient town of Ait Ben Haddou.

Designated a UNESCO World Heritage sight, Ait Ben Haddou is definitely a step back in time.

Having been one of the most important fortresses on the old salt route between the Sahara and Marrakech when slaves, gold, ivory and salt were traded, the city, whose age is not quite clear, is fascinating.

Today about 10 families live there, but in years past between 200-300 could have made their home there at any one time.

Made out of earth and clay bricks, a rainstorm is not good news for conservationists.

There are several beautiful kasbahs in the village,

which were fortified houses inhabited by the wealthy leaders of the village, and ornamented with decorative motifs.

We climbed to the summit above the village to get a perch from above

where the village took on a whole new perspective. Almost like a little sand castle city.

The city has been the backdrop for more than 20 films,

including "Lawrence of Arabia" and "Gladiator", along with "Jesus of Nazareth" when it substituted for the city of Jerusalem. Reminds me of all the backdrops for the flannel graph lessons I used years ago teaching Sunday school.

Just as we were leaving, we found a new friend,

who condescended enough to allow Hubby a smooch, capping off what had been a day of "time travel" for us.

Still more to come in the Moroccan saga if you'll stick with me and stop back by the blog for a visit in the days ahead. The people, the ways of getting around town, the Moroccan design, and probably my favorite thing to share: the colors of the souk.

Exploring Marrakech on New Levels

2011-11-16T12:59:00.000-06:00

The second day of our Moroccan holiday we headed to cooking school at Faim d'Epices. Hubby was a bit unsure about the idea, not having done a cooking class before, but believe you me, he jumped in with both feet and made me proud.

We worked as a team replicating the Moroccan recipes that our group was challenged to make.

Our day started with a spice orientation, when

our instructor challenged us to identify ingredients using our sense of smell with glasses that had been blackened out. Not so easy!

Then we got busy cooking--first the batbout bread, which we mixed, kneaded and cooked on a hot pan.

Our main course was a tagine of chicken with candied lemon and red olives. Delicious, and it was fascinating learning how to cook in the traditional Moroccan tagine.

Salads rounded out the lunch before preparation

for the Msemen patties--our sweet for the day.

Like a square pancake, we had to knead, and then fold, fold, and fold

the dough to make these little pastries,

which were served up with fresh fruit and homemade ice creams.

We headed outside to the olive grove

where our group of 10 congratulated ourselves on a delicious meal. Two gals from New Zealand who were hilarious, four gals from France who were delightful, even though they told my friend I reminded them of Hillary Clinton--grrr... and the four of us from London--our husbands loving being the only guys amongst 8 women!

Now it was time for our reward--we headed to the Mythic Oriental Spa, an enchanting

place to retreat for a little pampering. We were treated to a purifying bath, hamman (steam room)

black soap exfoliation treatment, and massage.

Decadent!

And since photos are not allowed past the "Boudoir of the Queens," I'll leave you here.

More to come about Marrakech and our trip to the mountains and desert next post. Hope you'll come back. Go treat yourself to a massage first!

Marrakech

2011-11-15T12:38:00.000-06:00

This past weekend, we checked another thing off of our bucket list--a visit to the fascinating city of Marrakech in the North African country of Morocco. I can not begin to tell you what a sensory experience it was, with the sounds, the tastes, the smells, the view all teasing us with every step we made. In so many ways, I felt like we had stepped back to Biblical times.

One of the first sights that caught our eye upon arrival was the Koutobia Mosque, built in the 12th century, from where the 5 calls to prayer each day can be heard throughout the city (including the one before sunrise every morning that called and called and called us to rise long before we were ready!)

After being let out by car at the city gate of the médina ( the old city,) we cautiously threaded our way through the narrow alleys with our luggage, dodging motor scooters, shoppers. and horses, to a

non-descript alley which led to our beautiful oasis in the midst of the chaos of the city--the Riad Kniza, our home for three nights.

Photo courtesy of Riad Kniza

Dating from the 18th century, the Riad Kniza has been completely restored to a small boutique hotel in an authentic Moroccan style.

The hospitality of the Riad was outstanding, starting with the traditional green mint tea served in beautiful Moroccan glasses upon arrival

as well as the breakfast feasts prepared each morning just for us.

The Riad boasted its own hamman spa

Photo courtesy of Riad Kniza

a beautiful terrace

Photo courtesy of Riad Kniza

and swimming pool.

Our room was meticulously furnished with some of the antiques from the owner's antique shop.

After a brief rest, we left the tranquility of the Riad and headed back down the alley seen above, to the streets for our guided tour

with our delightful host Haj Mohamed, who has been a guide for 34 years, having escorted several US presidents, movie stars including Brad Pitt, Tom Cruise, Nicole Kidman, and Jennifer Anniston. The day before we walked the streets with Mohammed, he had escorted Kurt Russell and Goldie Hawn. So, I'm sure he was quite delighted to be escorting VIP'S like hubby and me, along with our 2 travel buddies and good friends from London.

We walked through quiet alleys,

thronging streets,

Photo by Charene Jones

past more snake charmers than I could count

towards the bustling Djemaa el Fna square,

which is the crossroads of the city, filled with acrobats, story-tellers, snake charmers, musicians and dancers. At night, the square turns into a beautiful open air restaurant, full of tables and options for Moroccan dishes.

We quickly made our way through the souk (market), stopping at one shop to try on caftans like Goldie Hawn bought, and to see the table she was shipping back to her home in the States. Lots, lots more to come in a future post about this market.

Then we wrapped up with a cultural visit to the Ben Youssef Madrasa, an Islamic college built in the 16th century.

130 dormitory cells encircle the courtyard carved in marble, stucco and cedar. It may have housed as many as 900 students.

There are no human or animal representations in the carvings according to Islamic law, so the carvings consist of geometric patterns and inscriptions. One of the fascinating aspects of Moroccan design that we noticed during our visit.

As the sun set on our first day, we enjoyed a typical Moroccan dinner and made plans for the rest of the stay. Hope you'll come back for the follow-up posts which include camels, goat, sheep ( in no certain order,) cooking class, hamman spa treatments, the people of Morocco, mountain excursions and market mania.

Climb on board for the Marrakech Express!