Exploring Marrakech on New Levels

The second day of our Moroccan holiday we headed to cooking school at Faim d'Epices. Hubby was a bit unsure about the idea, not having done a cooking class before, but believe you me, he jumped in with both feet and made me proud.

We worked as a team replicating the Moroccan recipes that our group was challenged to make.

Our day started with a spice orientation, when

our instructor challenged us to identify ingredients using our sense of smell with glasses that had been blackened out. Not so easy!

Then we got busy cooking--first the batbout bread, which we mixed, kneaded and cooked on a hot pan.

Our main course was a tagine of chicken with candied lemon and red olives. Delicious, and it was fascinating learning how to cook in the traditional Moroccan tagine.

Salads rounded out the lunch before preparation

for the Msemen patties--our sweet for the day.

Like a square pancake, we had to knead, and then fold, fold, and fold

the dough to make these little pastries,

which were served up with fresh fruit and homemade ice creams.

We headed outside to the olive grove

where our group of 10 congratulated ourselves on a delicious meal. Two gals from New Zealand who were hilarious, four gals from France who were delightful, even though they told my friend I reminded them of Hillary Clinton--grrr... and the four of us from London--our husbands loving being the only guys amongst 8 women!

Now it was time for our reward--we headed to the Mythic Oriental Spa, an enchanting

place to retreat for a little pampering. We were treated to a purifying bath, hamman (steam room)

black soap exfoliation treatment, and massage. 

Decadent!

And since photos are not allowed past the "Boudoir of the Queens," I'll leave you here.

More to come about Marrakech and our trip to the mountains and desert next post. Hope you'll come back. Go treat  yourself to a massage first!

Marrakech

This past weekend, we checked another thing off of our bucket list--a visit to the fascinating city of Marrakech in the North African country of Morocco. I can not begin to tell you what a sensory experience it was, with the sounds, the tastes, the smells, the view all teasing us with every step we made. In so many ways, I felt like we had stepped back to Biblical times. 

One of the first sights that caught our eye upon arrival was the Koutobia Mosque, built in the 12th century, from where the 5 calls to prayer each day can be heard throughout the city (including the one before sunrise every morning that called and called and called us to rise long before we were ready!)

After being let out by car at the city gate of the médina ( the old city,) we cautiously threaded our way through the narrow alleys with our luggage, dodging motor scooters, shoppers. and horses, to a 

non-descript alley which led to our beautiful oasis in the midst of the chaos of the city--the Riad Kniza, our home for three nights.

Photo courtesy of Riad Kniza

Dating from the 18th century, the Riad Kniza has been completely restored to a small boutique hotel in an authentic Moroccan style.

The hospitality of the Riad was outstanding, starting with the traditional green mint tea served in beautiful Moroccan glasses upon arrival

as well as the breakfast feasts prepared each morning just for us.

The Riad boasted its own hamman spa

Photo courtesy of Riad Kniza

a beautiful terrace

Photo courtesy of Riad Kniza

and swimming pool.

Our room was meticulously furnished with some of the antiques from the owner's antique shop.

After a brief rest, we left the tranquility of the Riad and headed back down the alley seen above, to the streets for our guided tour

with our delightful host Haj Mohamed, who has been a guide for 34 years, having escorted several US presidents, movie stars including Brad Pitt, Tom Cruise, Nicole Kidman, and Jennifer Anniston. The day before we walked the streets with Mohammed, he had escorted Kurt Russell and Goldie Hawn. So, I'm sure he was quite delighted to be escorting VIP'S like hubby and me, along with our 2 travel buddies and good friends from London.

We walked through quiet alleys,

thronging streets,

Photo by Charene Jones

past more snake charmers than I could count

towards the bustling Djemaa el Fna square, 

which is the crossroads of the city, filled with acrobats, story-tellers, snake charmers, musicians and dancers. At night, the square turns into a beautiful open air restaurant, full of tables and options for Moroccan dishes.

We quickly made our way through the souk (market), stopping at one shop to try on caftans like Goldie Hawn bought, and to see the table she was shipping back to her home in the States. Lots, lots more to come in a future post about this market.

Then we wrapped up with a cultural visit to the Ben Youssef Madrasa, an Islamic college built in the 16th century.

130 dormitory cells encircle the courtyard carved in marble, stucco and cedar. It may have housed as many as 900 students.

There are no human or animal representations in the carvings according to Islamic law, so the carvings consist of geometric patterns and inscriptions. One of the fascinating aspects of Moroccan design that we noticed during our visit.

As the sun set on our first day, we enjoyed a typical Moroccan dinner and made plans for the rest of the stay. Hope you'll come back for the follow-up posts which include camels, goat, sheep ( in no certain order,) cooking class, hamman spa treatments, the people of Morocco, mountain excursions and market mania.

Climb on board for the Marrakech Express!

Covent Garden

Scores of tourists head each day to the ever popular Covent Garden, but as a local, I too love wandering around the square in my free time--it's one of the liveliest spots in town.

Originally in medieval times, the location of a produce garden supplying Westminster Abbey, Covent Garden has changed in many ways through the years. In the 1630's, the Earl of Bedford commissioned Inigo Jones to build an elegant residential area for his wealthy friends. Jones designed the homes around a piazza modeled after one he loved in Italy.

Even at this time, there was an open air market on the south side of the fashionable square surrounded by arcades of fine houses.

The St. Paul's Church, also built on one side of the square was completed by Inigo Jones in this period of development. It was under the portico of this church that the infamous Professor Henry Higgins met up with the cockney flower girl, Eliza Doolittle in the "My Fair Lady" story.

The area fell into disrepair and suffered in reputation over a couple of centuries, but in 1833, the central market was covered and fruit and vegetable wholesalers moved in.

Today you might find one or two fruit stands, 

but the Apple Market is better known today for its craft vendors

who take great pride

in their wares.

Nearby is the Royal Opera House, but on most days crowds gather inside the covered market to

be entertained by opera singers or classical musicians playing below.

You can always find snacks and a great meal both inside

or at one of the outside cafés

and have a ringside view of the crowds who gather to watch

entertainers and comedians put on popular shows. I can't recall what this entertainer was doing, but the by-standers seemed quite willing to participate in his little plan!

Street entertainers are abundant

on all paths leading to the square.

Shopping in the Apple Market shops is always fun, as well as just outside in the Jubilee Market, where vendors set up different stalls daily. There's something for everyone during the week: general items, arts and crafts and antiques rotating in and out.

Quite popular and recently opened is the mega Apple store which is the largest in the world.

And exciting for me was the opening this year of the Covent Garden Ladurée cafe and shop

with its towers of macarons in their front window display.

If you make it to London, be sure and include Covent Garden in your plans!